Since the amphibians need to maintain moisture constantly, materials such as glass, acrylic, and PVC-U are suitable for building indoor terrariums. Silicon mixed with acetic acid can be used to protect the glass windows and to adhere various objects, such as rocks and branches. Plastic bars allow more air movement than metallic barriers as more lights penetrate into the terrariums. The width of mesh for the screen must be smaller than the size of the animal used for feeding. Taking the Drosophila for example, the maximum width cannot exceed 0.7mm .

Before building a terrarium, one must confirm which species to keep and the type of the habitat required. In terms of newt and salamander larvae and aquatic phase or aquatic caecilian and frogs, a fish tank provides the best solution. The fish tank used should be as large as possible. The depth of the water depends on the species, seasons and other elements that range from approximately 1 inch (several centimeters, such as Bombina) to over 20 inches (half a meter, such as Surinam Toad). Certain species are required to leave its aquatic habitat for a short period of time even in natural environments; therefore, the openings of the fish tank must be secured. It is best to design a slanted lid to allow condensation water to drip. The islet used for sunbathing can be built using glass rods or sheets of cork. Vents can be set up on the sidewalls or on the back wall above the water; cut the vent into circles and cover with screen mesh.

For the terrestrial species, the best environment is terrariums with a shallow dish of an appropriate size. Cave digging frogs and caecilians require at least 1 foot ( 30 cm ) of base. Tree frogs and climbing salamanders require adequate height and adequate ventilation, while those ground digging species need adequate ground surface. Many specialists attempted to find the particular size of the terrarium for each species but is not feasible as too many variables are involved; for example, the gender, age, and size of the individual, and the internal structure of the space; further, most of these factors are not yet studied.

The past experiences have shown that the best way for all terrariums, is to dig ditches to guide and to discharge the water, and to set up openings for heating wires, pump wires, probes or small ventilation systems. Vents can be located directly below the viewing panel as the venting effect can be generated by the cover. Heat radiation from the lighting source produced a temperature gradient inside the terrarium and air convection is created along the surface of the wall to prevent water drops from condensing. The other option is to install a small ventilation system and corresponding control device providing fresh cool or warm air into the terrarium.

Florescent lights provide the best choice for the light source in salamander and newt terrariums since they release very small amount of heat (with the attachment of electronic florescent stabilizer). For salamanders, the sunlight provides adequate lamination as long as no plants are placed inside the terrarium. A mercury-vapor lamp and halogen spot light can be used together with florescent lights in the terrariums used to keep frogs. Tree frogs require gentle heat radiation that mimics the effect of sunlight penetrating through the leaves inside the terrarium; the frogs love to sit under in the light under the lamp, although they dwell on the gloomy forest grounds. Reflective glass can significantly increase the efficiency of the lights. Lighting and dark cycles can be regulated using timing device. If seasonal changes are required such as longer or shorter daylight, it can be done each week using the timer. In order to observe nocturnal amphibians during their active period and not to disturb them, installing a red incandescent lamp with a low wattage is necessary.

The air inside the terrarium needs to be heated for tropical or subtropical species, or when the terrarium is being moved into rooms with colder temperature during winter. Heating guide wire covered in silicon can be easily installed on the branches or at the back of the wall under the tree bark; the temperature can be regulated with a thermometer or thermostat outside of the terrarium. A special fish tank heater is needed to heat the fish tank or the bodies of water inside the terrarium. The temperature of the heated water must be maintained to be lower than that of the air.

Species dwelling in caves or in mountain regions require cooler air and water which can be effectively provided by installing a cooling device above the back wall of the terrarium. This type of man-made terrarium must have good heat insulation, and the insulation glass must prevent water condensation. The temperature must be under 68F ( 20°C ); in addition, terrarium keeping newts and salamanders should be moved to cooler basements during the summer.

The increase of relative moisture inside the terrarium can be created through artificial miniature waterways, air stone inside the water basin, or ultrasonic diffuser with an exterior water reservoir. One must note that the relative moisture created should not be high enough to affect ventilation as long term exposure to turbid air is harmful to amphibians. Automatic sprinkler is no doubt the best solution for several terrariums under the same roof. Aquatic amphibians can be cared with internal or external filtering system specially designed for fish tanks. The pollution and toxicity of tap water should be confirmed to be sure that it fits the needs of these captive amphibians.

Water basin can be built but its functionality and esthetics must be noted. PVC tubes are very useful caecilians and salamanders who use crevices under the rocks or sheets of tree bark as a hiding place. Poison Arrow Frogs can cope with plastic containers or small bottles in place of bromeliads or other water containers (phytotelma, water bodies held by plants); these non-natural containers have the advantage of easier control and cleaning. Newts, salamanders, and ground digging frogs can tolerate an isolation cork used on water cultivated plants or expansive clay. These materials can create good micro climates, and can display a natural appearance when covered with moss or leaves. The surface of the wall on the sides or in the back can be covered with cork or other modeling materials (such as polyurethane foam or tile adhesives mixed with pieces of wood and charcoal) so the plants can be placed upon them. Tree roots, miniature waterfalls, climbing branches can be used to build the interior of the terrarium to satisfy the needs of the amphibians. Plants inside the terrarium need to have stronger adaptation capabilities to endure the climate within. Do not use plant fertilizers to prevent injuries to amphibians' sensitive skins. Cave digging frogs and terrestrial salamanders would love moss liners and soft humus soil from beech forests, but they can endure an entire sheet of foamy plastics as well.